Ornellaia, Masseto

Robert Parker The 2021 Masseto is back to being 100% Merlot. Recent past vintages saw a tiny part of Cabernet Franc. That second varietal in the blend represents the proverbial "tax" one must pay in the face of climate change, especially when making wine on the sun-drenched Tuscan Coast. This is a very rich and elaborate expression with the extract, tannic tightness and the hefty 15.5% alcohol content to match. It comes off as quite big-boned or monotone. The wine is redolent of blackberry confit and cooked cherry, with a wide range of sweet oak spices to close. There is dark chocolate with a thin lining of creamy mint filling. Within the context of that fullness and generous fruit weight, Masseto is quite a commitment in terms of price and further cellaring. More bottle aging is an absolute requirement.

Vinous The 2021 Masseto is a stunner. It also shows how much the estate has evolved in recent years. I was reminded of that recently when I drank the 2001, considered by many observers, including this one, to be one of the greatest wines ever made here. The 2021 represents a move towards a more refined style. There's less of the bombastic intensity and extraction that were once the norm here. I remember young vintages that were impossible to taste young. The 2021, on the other hand, is an absolute delight. Crushed flowers, spice, blood orange and bright, red-toned fruit all grave the palate. Floral aromatics and saline underpinnings are at times reminiscent of the Cabernet Franc found in the 2019 and 2020, but the 2021 is back to the classic 100% Merlot. Readers will find a Masseto built on linear energy more than volume. The 2021 is quite simply the most exquisite, refined young Masseto I have eer tasted. Aging was 24 months in 100% new French oak.

James Suckling Dark purple color. Blackberry, blueberry, flint, gunmetal and currant aromas with undertones of violets and mocha. Full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that are very polished, giving a silky texture that fills your mouth. It’s fresh yet very deep, with tannins that last for minutes. Finely crafted and classy. Pure merlot. Drink after 2029.

Decanter In 2021, Masseto returns to its original 100% Merlot concept, following two years which saw the inclusion of 15% Cabernet Franc. Following a mild and wet winter, spring was dry and the summer was characterised by higher than average temperatures and periods of drought. Luckily, the vines were quenched by the water reserves built up at the beginning of the year. Masseto 2021 really has everything: it's vertical in shape and saline in character, with succulence of fruit, freshness of profile and finesse of tannins. Mediterranean herbs accompany ripe dark fruit scents and flavours which are yet to reveal all their depth and charm.